Face Shapes
Update** Read several of my shape recommendations to other TGs here http://www.susans.org/forums/index.php?action=profile;u=214;sa=showPosts;start=80
One of the first things you need to know is your face shape. Your hair, makeup, and general femininity can be affected by your shape. You can do things to minimize and enhance your facial shape.
Determining your face shape
A cheap way to determine your face shape is to use lipstick on a mirror and outline your face. Wash it off when you are done observing your face shape. You can also look at a current facial picture of yourself. Or you can measure the parts of your face.
How and Why I made the Face shapes
What are the main face shapes and what are the challenges of having each shape. In order to protect copywrites and make it so I dont have to take pictures of other people , I have used a warping program to try warping my face into somewhat each of the shapes. The shapes are not perfect but you will get the idea. Most tables of face shapes are either computer drawn or hand drawn. This will sort of give you the idea of the different characteristics and challenges, and how the shape effects even with the same eyes, eyebrows and mouths.
Here is a list of Face shapes. I have not applied the corrections since that would be too hard since these are just me with stretched areas. Read the information for how to correct the challenges and try it out.
Oval Face
Dimensions: One and a half times longer than wide across brow. Narrower chin than forhead. I have pushed in my natural jaw a bit to try showing a oval shaped face.
This is more of the Ideal shape of face trying to achieve. If all your other features are sufficiently feminine, you can almost wear any hairstyle, go with little makeup.
Hair: Almost any hairstyle depending on your hair volume.
Makeup: If you wear makup, its mainly to minimize skin flaws. Balance out concealer on main normal highlighted areas under eyes to cheekbones and forehead. Dark blush around jaw and temples (much less than other shapes). Light blush to center face areas: around eyes, lower forehead, nose, and upper lip.
Eyebrows: Eyebrows should curve down towards the lower ear.
Earrings: Most shapes work well. Avoid long shapes that elongate your face.
Glasses: Almost any shape will do, round or angular. Wider frames add interest.
General Eye Glass Rules: Frame color should be similar to hair color in how dark or light they are (ex. blonds should have light colored, and darks darker. Be carefull to maybe consider eyebrow color over dyed colors) Black frames create dramatic look. Highlights in hair around face and bangs may help compliment glasses. Bangs should be swept to one side or short and airy. Main concern is fit when picking glasses for this face shape. When getting a glass shape, be carefull not to let the eyeglasses cross the eyebrow.
Glass frame colors and eye colors: Your eye color can be complemented by or coordinated with your frames. Dark brown eyes are the most versatile. Almost any color will work well but dark brown frames are probably the least flattering. Rosy, orange, tawny, and dark purple tones look best with blue eyes. Roses, purples, warm greens and gold highlighted frames look good with light brown or hazel eyes. Green eyes look best with khaki, chocolate, purple and burgundy colors.
Round Face
Dimensions: Round hairline, chin line, wide face, almost equal length and width.
Challenges: Lengthening the face to make it appear slimmer. Round faces lack dominate facial features.
Hair: Pick styles that add volume to top, and are very close to the sides (to prevent emphasizing the width). Keep medium to short if neck is short. Off center part, left or right above the eye helps to break up the face. Dont use very short styles nor center parts.
Makeup: Concealer should lighten cheeks from side of nose to upper cheeks. Concealer should also be applied from lower lip to chin and on forhead. Darker blush that slenderizes the cheeks, temples, and jaw. Lighter blush can be added to same areas as concealer. Lip techniques that bring in the sides of the lips and mouth, highlights and shadows that lengthen the nose, and mascara/liner, and shadows that creates more space between the eyebrows and eyes, are several focus areas that can help add length to the face.
Eyebrows: angled more on arch (to minimize roundness).
Earrings: Use curved lines that are longer than they are wide. Avoid big or round earrings. Longer and Dangling earrings are great and work well.
Glasses: Angular shapes wider than deep. Angles will help break up the roundness, and keeping shorter depth will help lengthen the face. Choose narrow frames. Frames with more crisp straight lines will also help add angles.
Square Face
Dimensions: Wide forehead and jaw. Narrow at middle. Nearly same width as length. Has many angles and straight lines.
Challenges: To soften the angles
Hair: Put curves around temples and jaw to soften the harsh angles. Add volume to ear area to create a bit of width. Add height to crown. Keep cut medium to short if neck is short. Avoid solid straight bangs.
Makeup: Add blush to cheek area and jaw/jawline to minimize angular jaw. Add a little to temples to create curves there (in addition to hair curves). Concealer should be applied to top of forhead, chin, and cheeks and anywhere. Highlighter can be applied from under the eyes up to just into the temple area. A bit of sheen on highlighted areas such as upper cheeks, forhead, nose, and chin can give a more uplifted round look.
Eyebrows: Face needs help softening. Should be on the thinner side. Should be arched without harsh angles, nor straight. Brow should slope towards middle of the ear. A Higher arch can help elongate the face.
Lips: Lips should be rounded. Use Darker colors and gloss plump and add emphasis to the center of the face and help elongate
Earrings: Medium size, Angular, with soft corners. Stay away from squares, rounds, and too big earrings.
Glasses: Round or Oval shapped glasses. Narrow.
Pear Shape (Triangle)
Dimensions: Wider jaw then forehead.
Challenges: Narrow (minimize) jaw and jawline, widen forehead, lengthen face.
Hair: Pick a style that has volume at the temples, has some height on top, and can curve a bit narrow to chin area (soft fringe) such as slightly curled out. Carefull not to add much volume to chin area. Hair should be straight near bottom or curved in.
Makeup: Add concealer around eyes, on nose, and center of forhead. Add darker foundation to whole jaweline including under chin. A lighter foundation under eyes to cheekbone, on nose, and across temples.
Eyebrows: Gently arch brows, groomed but not too thin. Slightly start brow a little further than inside corner of eye. Extend slightly further than outside corner of eye. Keep arch to a minimum. Dont make it too thin.
Earrings: Either short large earrings (help widen upper facial area) or long thin dangly earrings (lengthens head and doesnt add width to chin/jaw) are ideal
Glasses: Wide Angular
Heart Shape (Inverted Triangle)
Dimensions: Wide forehead, narrow chinline. Chin may be pointed or prominant.
Challenges: Decrease width of forehead, and increase width of lower facial area.
Hair: Keep the hair near the head on top with no volume. Fringe is good, especial if it comes in on the temple area hiding the wide forhead. Increase the volume of the hair slightly in the mid area around the ears. Go widest at the jaw and neck areas. Avoid short hair. Keep length chin to shoulder length or longer.
Makeup: Add concealer and light blush/foundation to the center lower forhead, nose small area above cheeks and from lip to nose. Use dark blush foundation to cheeks up to temples along the sides. If forehead is prominent, you may want slightly darker foundation on forhead.
Eyebrows: straight line to middle of the ears with only a slight slope. They should be shorter in length. Start above inside of eye. Exaggerate arch can add length. Keep width natural but not too bushy or thin.
Earrings: Use oval shapes that are broader on the bottom, will add width to the jawline
Glasses: Round or angular. Avoid wide on top, narrow on bottom.
Diamond Face
Dimensions: Narrow forehead and narrow jaw/chin. Wider middle area at ears and cheekbones.
Challenges: Reduce width of cheekbone width.
Hair: Most volume in jawline and forehead. Bangs add to fullness. Avoid exposing hairline and ears. Hair near ears is close to head with no volume. Play most caution around this ear area. Avoid long haircuts because they will elongate your face.
Makeup: Keep the concealer and light color blush/foundation to the center of the face: under eyes, cheek nose side, sides of nose, nose, center forehead. Darker foundation and blush can be used on the cheeks and throughout the widest areas.
Eyebrows: Concentrate on opening the eyes up. Close or evenly spaced eyes, start the brow slightly further than the inner corner of the eye. Wide set eyes frame them individually.
Earrings: Use angular earrings that sit close to your face. Squares and triangles are good. Avoid curved, long, or dangling earrings.
Glasses: Narrow frames if cheek bones are high, wide if low.
Oblong Face (Rectangular)
Dimensions: Long and narrow. Hollow cheeks
Challenges: Make the face appear shorter and wider.
Hair: Keep hair closely to top of head (as to not add anymore height). Add volume to the sides to create an illusion of width. Chin length hair is the max, since anymore would add to the elongated shape. A round shaped haircut is great. Avoid straight and pulled back hair, or exposed hairline.
Makeup: Light foundation, concealer, and blush can be focused in the center of the face. From eyes to checkbones, middle of forehead, nose, and above lips. Long amounts of lower cheek dark blush can aid into helping to make the head appear shorter. Apply from the back of the cheekbone (near ear) up to the eye (no further).
Lips: Avoid glossy or dark lip colors that draw attention to the length of the face.
Earrings: Use wide, curved shapes to create width in the middle of your face. Avoid long, narrow, dangling earrings that elongate your face.
Glasses: Avoid small, square, or narrow glasses. Wide with contrasting or decorative temples may help add width to the tops. Bigger and longer frames will also shorten the face.
EX. My face Shape
Here is my natural picture. Without any blush, my jaw and chin appear very wide and angular. The dimensions are very pear shaped. There are several challenges I must overcome when trying to apply makeup that will feminize the shape of my head, as well as picking a hairstyle. Already the hair style I have picked here feminizes the natural hair much. The curves of the hair at the jawline helps to push and round the jaw somewhat.
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